Another world awaits with Atrium, Oliva Restaurant Group’s latest concept.
The Parlor's Polibbean Punch, a mix of Ten to One white rum, guava, cinnamon, lime and Jamaica tea
The Bistro boasts stunning pink and peacock-blue banquettes
As I step through the ground-floor door of Ponce City Market, I’m focusing on closing my umbrella and not slipping in my wet boots, unaware of the enchanting evening that awaits. I make my way toward the beckoning entrance to Atrium (@atriumatl), drawn to the warmth oozing from the space. Even so, I’m unprepared for the complete change of pace wrought by stepping through the neon-lit entryway. PCM’s characteristic hustle and bustle immediately fades, replaced with the transformative serenity of a space more reminiscent of a European paradise than a food hall. But that’s exactly what Tal Baum, founder and proprietor of Oliva Restaurant Group, intended. “We want guests to specifically plan their evening in our bubble,” she shares. “That’s the beauty of Atrium. It stands out.” Indeed, Atlanta has yet to off er anything quite like Atrium’s eclectic yet cohesive design, full of riotous color and bold botanicals, and incredible cuisine, featuring an elevated beverage program and inspired classic dishes.
Atrium's arctic char
The Bang Island mussels pack a delicious, spicy punch.
Baum worked with Smith Hanes Studio to bring the restaurant’s multi-hued interiors to life. They began with a mood board, knowing only that they intended to create something transformative. Says Baum, “With each restaurant, we want to take guests somewhere else entirely. Even though Atrium is not tied to a specific region, we’re transporting guests to another world that’s calming and enchanting.” The world of Atrium is bright, yet serene; soothing, yet stimulating. Seated at the bar, coined the Parlor, I found myself losing track of time as I imagined the Côte d'Azur sitting just beyond the pink ceiling and tropical mural. Walk-ins only, the Parlor provides the perfect place for a spontaneous visit, or the ideal place for an aperitif. My recommendation? The Dragon Painter, a sinfully delicious mix of gin, shochu, Japanese citrus, lime and umami paint.
The Parlor features a handpainted mural by Kipper Millsap
From the mind of beverage director Demario Wallace, Atrium's elevated martini service is served tableside, allowing guests to garnish the drink to their own tastes.
“Even though Atrium is not tied to a specific region, we’re transporting guests to another world that’s calming and enchanting.” –Tal Baum, Founder and Proprietor
The Commodore Daiquiri, featuring a rum blend, purple potato syrup, lime and nutmeg
The tuna crudo, complete with aguachile green tomato, Persian cucumber and scallions, absolutely melts in the mouth
After drinking in my fill of Savannah-based Kipper Millsap’s incredible mural, I finally make my way over to the Bistro, where captivating jewel tones and incredible floral installations from Pinker Times await. The menu of modern American cuisine with European influence features bright, seasonally driven ingredients, inspired by what Baum and executive culinary director Brandon Hughes love to cook. After a struggle to not order the entire uber-appetizing menu, I settle on the tuna crudo, which absolutely melts in the mouth, and the Bang Island mussels, which incorporate the perfect amount of spice. Content and satisfied, I sip and lounge in the peacock-blue banquette, apprehensive to leave this enchanting oasis. Finally, as my evening inevitably ends and I step back into the rain-filled night, I feel as though the whole visit might’ve only happened in a dream.
Photography by: Angie Webb