Flashback Fare

By Kate Abney | July 14, 2015 | Articles

Revival? How about revolution? Chef Kevin Gillespie’s latest game-changer, Revival, slated to open this month at a repurposed historic Decatur home, revels in rustic charms, with intimate dining spaces and traditional Southern fare befitting its old-fashioned environs. In contrast to the modern Southern cuisine currently dominating the dining circuit, Gillespie’s dishes hark back to the simple flavors of yesteryear, served according to his favorite, family-style routine: cold hors-d’œuvres, followed by hot hors-d’œuvres, relishes, cornbread, entrees accompanied by several sides, then desserts (prepare for fried pies, ambrosia, trifle and the real-deal version of red velvet cake).

A self-described blend of utilitarian “yokel” and “Southern WASP,” Gillespie brings the best of both worlds to the table—whether it’s wood-fired cookery or fine-tuned preparations, like the perfectly peeled grape tomatoes in his tangy and spicy cucumber chowchow. And the fluffy-as-heaven cornbread? It’s the only recipe he won’t give away. He’s more forthcoming about others, like the roasted sweet potatoes Executive Chef Andreas Müller found in an antique cookbook. The duo’s dishes—which include fried corn, buttered peas, impossibly juicy fried chicken and Midcentury Mac topped with lard-fried potato chips (yup)—are best washed down with a glass of iced tea. We suggest sweet. Wink! @revivaldecatur


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