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Easy Does It

By Kelsey Bjelland | May 14, 2015 | Articles

It’s usually a safe bet to judge a Tex-Mex restaurant based on its guacamole. Superica’s is good—fresh and simple, served with extra-thick chips—but where Ford Fry’s Krog Street Market establishment really shines is outside. “This patio is just clutch,” remarked our server, Wes, who lives in the neighborhood, which straddles the line between Inman Park and Cabbagetown. And he’s right: It’s the kind of spot that makes you want to settle in for a while, especially given the cushioned, bright-yellow seats, the most comfortable I’ve seen on a patio. (Just remember to swap your stilettos for sandals—the floor is mostly gravel, spelling death for your Louboutins). The laid-back, chill environs are a big part of the charm, and you’ll find an eclectic mix of ATL-ians—from business suits to BeltLine walkers to hipsters with better ponytails than mine—noshing and imbibing until the wee hours (the kitchen takes orders until about 10:30pm on weekends).

From spring through fall, alfresco tables are in high demand. Prepare to wait two or three hours on a weekend night, as reservations aren’t a thing. On a Wednesday night in April, the wait for a two-top at 8:30pm was still 45 minutes.

But the ops for catching up over cocktails like The O.G. margarita (small but mighty), a Vampire Weekend (with housemade horchata and spiced rum) or Mexican beer served in a frosty mug make the time fly. A window bar with seats outside opening to the bar inside (hello, cute bartender) fills up fast; there’s also plenty of bar stools inside in the Texas-mod inspired interior by New York-based firm Parts and Labor Design. And on Thursday through Saturday nights, local bands liven up the place even more with tunes on the restaurant’s stage.

We first order the Bob Armstrong, a Texas-inspired queso made with yellow cheese and topped with ground beef, avocado and sour cream; and an order of guacamole. They both come recommended by GM Andrew Palermo (formerly of King + Duke). We snack on a basket of fresh tortilla chips while we wait, helping ourselves to two jars of housemade salsa on the table. I can’t get enough of the creamy, raw tomatillo variety—our server reveals the secret ingredient is avocado. My dinner date, a hot-sauce connoisseur, raves about the housemade Cowboy Gringo Sauce, asking our server when they’re going to start bottling it up and selling it to the masses.

Perusing the entrees, I decide something with tortillas is a must, as they’re all handmade here (and on the small side—a good thing after all those chips and dips). We see several plates of steak fajitas coming out that look divine, and for the extra hungry, the tampiquena (marinated wood-grilled skirt steak covered with a cheese enchilada and fried egg) or the whole-roasted Gulf red snapper both appear to be smart choices. I order spicy shrimp tacos with smoked jalapeno, which I chase with a refreshing Red Headed Stranger cocktail (Deep Eddy Ruby Red vodka, Campari, grapefruit juice and lime). My date opts for ground beef enchiladas with chili gravy. Both plates are simple, yet also exceptional—proving classic Tex-Mex done well is hard to beat.

Dessert options include a tres leches cake with passion fruit-infused whipped cream, but it’s a tough sell with Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream a few steps away inside Krog Street Market. Then again, it’s just as easy to skip dessert in lieu of another round of cocktails and soak up the ambience a bit longer. Cheers!

Superica
Krog Street Market
99 Krog St. NE
678.791.1310
@supericaatl



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