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Weekend in Rome
JEZ checks into the perfectly located InterContinental de la Ville Roma, and experiences

the best of Rome in just 48 hours.

Of course, if you have the time, by all means plan a longer trip–Rome is an amazing city with plenty to see and do. But, if you are like me and just adore Italy, you’ll want to city hop, which is perfectly easy to do by train. It’s this ease of transportation that makes visiting Italy a real pleasure–who needs stress on their vacation? I don’t, that’s for sure.

I flew out on a Wednesday night on a direct Delta Air Lines flight and arrived in Rome on Thursday morning. Not one to sleep on planes, I was pretty tired by the time I arrived at the hotel, which was a short 30-minute drive from the airport. Location is always important, but it is especially so when traveling in Europe because you are relying on your own two feet to get around for the most part, along with public transportation–and Vespas if you dare. When it comes to a primo location in Rome, it doesn’t get better than the InterContinental de la Ville Roma. The luxe, historic hotel is located in the heart of the city, on Via Sistina, just a minute’s walk from the world-famous Spanish Steps–and from the Piazza di Spagna and Via Condotti–boasting world-class shopping. Originally a convent, this historic 16th-century, neoclassical residential estate was redesigned by Hungarian architect József Vágó in 1924 to become one of the most prestigious hotels in all of Rome. The deluxe hotel has been a member of InterContinental Hotels & Resorts since 1982.

The elegance of the InterContinental de la Ville Roma embraces you as soon as you walk through the door. The Old-World glam style is true to the building’s heritage, with its interior design reflecting the grandeur of Palladian villas, with traces of Renaissance motifs and rich hues found in antique Rome. To honor the site’s roots as a convent, a 250-year-old Bible is on display in the reception area for guests to appreciate.

The hotel boasts 192 guest rooms of varying sizes, including 128 deluxe, 23 superior, 18 standard, 21 suites and two top suites with terraces. As is typical for European hotels, rooms tend to be on the smaller side (the smallest room in the hotel is 350 square feet), so if grandeur is what you prefer, plan accordingly and book a suite, the largest of which, Penthouse 840, boasts more than 850 square feet. In fact, legendary composer and conductor Leonard Bernstein made good use of the suite’s white lacquer baby grand piano during his extended stay in this very room.

After a quick and easy check-in, I made my way to my deluxe room, which was plenty spacious for my needs. The neoclassical furnishings, opulent fabrics and décor were tasteful, not overdone. As anyone who has stayed in an InterContinental would expect, the bed was plush and comfortable–so much so that after a quick but lovely Italian buffet breakfast on the quaint garden courtyard of La Piazzetta de la Ville at the hotel, I had to give in and take a nap.

After getting some much needed rest, I awoke and realized I’d better check my e-mail. I was thrilled to find Wi-Fi working in my room. For those that depend on e-mail and the Internet when traveling, there’s simply no better feeling than when you boot up your laptop and the Wi-Fi just works. Soon, it was time to get ready for dinner. While far from large, the marble bathroom was very nicely designed, and the shower had good water pressure. That and a working hair dryer, and I was good to go.

Before long, it was time to meet my group for an aperitif and dinner in the hotel’s sixth-floor Emperor’s Terrace. The balconies of the InterContinental de la Ville Roma offer breathtaking views of Rome’s rooftops from its ancient castles all the way to Monte Mario. We enjoyed relaxing and taking in the surreal panoramic views of this Eternal City. From the terrace, we could see Saint Peter’s Square, Piazza Venezia and the Pantheon, as well as the city’s most spectacular monuments such as the Quirinal Palace and St. Peter’s Basilica. We enjoyed a specially planned dinner under the stars and stayed well into the night enjoying a nightcap or two (or three, but who’s counting?).

Since we had much planned for the next day, we all retired to our respective rooms for the evening. It wasn’t long before I was in a solid state of slumber.

The next morning, the group met up once again to enjoy breakfast outside in the garden courtyard of La Piazzetta de la Ville. It felt as though we were dining in the courtyard of a fine Italian home, and I enjoyed it much more since I was rested and was able to focus on the fine quality of the cuisine. I just loved the fresh mozzarella di bufala, prosciutto and freshly baked Italian bread. Yes, just forget about your diet while traveling anywhere in Italy! The cuisine is just far too good to pass up. But, fortunately, what you add in calories, you take off by all the walking you do. An à la carte lunch and dinner also are served at La Piazzette de la Ville.

After breakfast, we were off to visit the Palazzo delle Esposizioni to see the buzzed-about Bulgari exhibition entitled “Between History and Eternity: 1884–2009,” celebrating the 125th anniversary of its founding. The exhibit was the first retrospective in Bulgari’s history, revisiting the interesting and celebrity-rich history of the company and the evolution of Bulgari design, from the opening of the first shop on Via Sistina in 1884 to today. Featured in the amazing exhibit were more than 500 masterpieces of jewelry, watchmaking and objects d’art, some of them selected from the Bulgari Vintage Collection, a spectacular historic treasury that is the product of both company and private archives. Organized chronologically in eight sections, the exhibition begins with a collection of works in silver from the late 19th century crafted by Sotirio Bulgari, who in 1884 laid the foundations for what would become one of the world’s premier jewelers. Among the most mind-blowing pieces is a diamond necklace valued at more than 13 million euro. From celebs that wore the gems to the fine craftsmanship, the exhibit was truly spectacular. As if I didn’t appreciate Bulgari before, I really did when I left.

It was hard to believe, but after walking the exhibit we were hungry yet again. So we decided to indulge a bit at local pizzeria Il Boscalolo for some delicious Italian pizza and a couple glasses of Prosecco.

That afternoon, the hotel concierge had booked us for what the hotel calls an “Insider Experience,” a private Vespa tour of Rome. Before we left for the tour, I had the opportunity to chat with the concierge for a bit about all the many things to do in and around the hotel, as well as ask for assistance in purchasing my train tickets for the day of departure. Overall, the service at the hotel, from the friendly concierge to knowledgeable wait staff, is top-notch. And everyone there speaks very good English.

For our Vespa tour, we were thankfully paired with a local driver. The tour took us through about 3,000 years of Roman history while viewing all the city’s major sites and monuments. While the city is filled with museums, just driving through the streets, you see a plethora of amazing works of art and evidence of the city’s rich history. Rome is a city of squares connected by narrow streets. While the Baroque style of design, which is a very illusionary, is prevalent, many styles are represented. There are also more than 9,000 fountains throughout the city, all spurting drinkable water. The city also boasts a large number of monuments and obelisks. In Rome, you will find eight ancient Egyptian and five ancient Roman obelisks, along with a number of modern ones, too.

Yet despite its bountiful history, Rome is very much alive, with the past merging with the present for the perfect combination of historic and modern. The city has a tradition of building over rather than tearing down, and in one square alone, you may see 2,000 years of architecture layered over one another. For the residents of Rome, there is a daily connection to history and art, and it’s not uncommon to see a fifth-century door still in use today. The city is also very green, with more than 14,000 parks and gardens to enjoy. Close to the hotel, for example, are the gardens on Pincio Hill, well worth a stroll through.

One of the most memorable ancient sites was the amazing Colosseum, the largest monument in Rome still existing that dates back to A.D. 72. Considered the most important monument of ancient Rome, the grand space was used for games, ceremonies, wild animal hunts, executions and re-enactments of famous battles until A.D. 405, when Emperor Honorius banned such use. It could hold up to 50,000 spectators seated around a central elliptical arena. In the fifth century, the arena was badly damaged by two earthquakes. After being abandoned for some years, it was converted and used in a variety of ways, such as a setting for painters crafting their work, a fortress for the medieval clans of the city and as a place of Christian worship. Today, the Colosseum is well visited and is reminiscent of its former gloriousness with three tiers of arcades faced by three-quarter columns and entablatures. The Pantheon is another must-visit site. Its size takes your breath away. Built in 27 B.C. as a temple to the gods of ancient Rome, the Pantheon is the oldest standing domed structure in Rome.

The Vespa tour was amazing and very educational yet entertaining at the same time. Back at the hotel, we had a few hours to relax and shower before dinner at the popular Ristorante Dal Bolognese Sas located near the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo. It was a beautiful night, so we chose to dine on the coveted patio. Open since 1940, Ristorante Dal Bolognese Sas serves up delightful Bolognese and Emiliana-Romagnola cuisine in a chic atmosphere that attracts the fashionable local set, celebrities, artists and businessmen alike. Definitely worth a visit when in Rome.

Before turning in for the night, we could not resist having a nightcap at the Emperor’s Terrace back at the hotel–a perfect way to end the evening. Guests also can enjoy I Due Murano, the famed piano bar open around the clock at the hotel, with live music every evening.

The next day was another busy one, with a visit to Vatican City, Vatican museums and St. Peter’s Basilica. Vatican City is a functioning city with 1,000 residents, and the history that fills its museums is vast. The artwork simply renders you speechless–especially Michelangelo’s masterpiece on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. About 25,000 visitors come to visit the famed ceiling every day. The museums are the second most popular in the world after the Louvre Museum in Paris. We were told that the great works are so vast that it would take 25 years, from open to close each day, to see all of the art, museums and private areas of Vatican City.

Hours touring helped us once again build up an appetite, so off to restaurant La Buca Di Ripetta we went. Popular with tourists and locals alike, La Buca Di Ripetta is a quaint spot with a local feel and has an old-fashioned Vespa situated in the middle of the dining room. The menu offers creative Roman fare and is another must-try while in the city.

After lunch, we enjoyed shopping on the Via Condotti, Via del Corso and Via Frattina. From Bulgari to Gucci and Prada, you’ll find all the major labels here, along with a variety of smaller, local designers as well. It’s easy to drift from store to store, stopping for coffee and gelato in between.

For dinner, we had the pleasure of dining at the Antica Pesa restaurant. Celebs such as Tom Hanks, Gwyneth Paltrow, Al Pacino, Anne Hathaway and many others dine here while in town. Serving amazing Italian fare inside and outside on a large, beautiful terrace, this was one of our most memorable meals outside of the hotel. The dining hot spot boasts rather traditional Italian décor and the most friendly and knowledgeable wait staff. A large wine room downstairs is also worth a visit.

The next morning, after a whirlwind trip, it was time to depart. While 48 hours is certainly not enough time to see all this amazing city has to offer, it was the perfect amount of time to tempt my taste buds for more. I hopped the train, leaving with a new found love of yet another Italian city.

By Beth Weitzman

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